I would like to invite those who have third period free to join me for LARPing (Live Action Role Playing).
I have been a happy participant of the second-period LARP group this past Fall Session, but I’ve decided to take advantage of a second-period opportunity (that is, “take a class”). I am sad to not be free to participate in the second-period LARP group. I am hopeful that others will be willing to join me for some Live Action Role Play from 12:30pm to 1:45pm, most likely starting during the lunch period and so overlapping with the second-period LARP group from 12pm to 12:30pm.
Following the practices of the second-period LARP group, there are two strict rules:
1. Be nice.
2. Never say no to another person’s idea.
Also, players who wish to duel should do so in slow motion and tap lightly.
Costumes are encouraged but optional. This is an all-weather LARP taking place outside, so plan your outfit accordingly. (Should the weather be really dreadful, the group may opt for LARP storytelling in the student lounge.)
I want to continue LARPing over the summer. I have scheduled a first springtime LARP after the end of Planet Homeschool. I am inviting friends who could LARP at Planet Homeschool and friends who could’t. This is a also chance to expand our LARP to a larger area that is better for LARPing and to play for a longer time.
FYI: LARP is Live Action Role Playing, also known as Grown Up Make Believe.
Here are the details:
Summertime LARP
Wednesday, May 18, 2016
10:00 am – 2:00 pm
Tony Schmidt Regional Park
3500 Lake Johanna Blvd
Arden Hills, MN 55112
Live Action Role Playing! Also known as Grown Up Make Believe. This is a multiverse LARP — characters and costumes may come from any genre or era or story or …. The story for this LARP is continually evolving and is written cooperatively by all players, so there is no group leader. While the group may choose to follow someone for a particular campaign on a particular day, any Emperors, Dictators, Generals, or CEOs will be promptly overthrown!
Summertime LARP Rules
Safety first.
Always be nice.
Never say “No” to another person’s idea.
Those who wish to duel must do so in slow motion and tap lightly.
Costumes are encouraged but optional.
Bring provisions (that is, a picnic lunch).
This is an all-weather LARP taking place outside, so plan your outfit accordingly.
This is also a judgement-free LARP. If someone makes a choice with which you disagree, whether it be what they’re saying, what they’re wearing, or what they’re doing, take it as an opportunity to learn … or at least to practice being kind.
RSVP requested.
Adult supervision is not provided.
For more information on Tony Schmidt Regional Park, visit bit.ly/tony-schmidt.
Attached is a map as Tony Schmidt is a very large park! I’ve also expanded the description to include answers to frequently asked questions. Starting Thursday, June 2, I hope to hold regular weekly LARPs on Thursdays. Until then the day will vary to some degree as I finishe out my spring commitments. Locations will vary somewhat but not greatly. Details on Crafters Guild #1 is also still pending, but the first project will be boffers.
Our first Crafters Guild gathering will focus on foamsmithing flatblade boffers for the LARP, but you are welcome to bring another project to work on independently.
The group meets at the grassy knoll by the parking lot north of Lake Johanna Blvd. There we review safety guidelines, tell each other about our characters, suit up, and wait for latecomers.
Once everyone has arrived (or the group get tired of waiting), we hike up the hill, past the open field, down the dirt path, into the woods, and over the train tracks. Just past the swinging bench, we leave the path and head into the trees, where we are “building” a base camp from sticks and branches and other finds. (We plan to head in with trash bags one of these weeks as it so distresses us to see the litter within the woods.)
When we tire of base camp, we set out to explore, hiking through the trees and seeking new paths to follow. When you are within the trees, it feels like you are deep in the woods, but in fact, you are in just a small circle of forest and every direction leads to a paved walking path.
Before we know it, it is time for lunch, and we go back down to the picnic shelter nearest the parking lot (where the restrooms are unlocked).
After lunch, we head up the hill to the grassy field for melee battle. Last week, we introduced the melee referee and melee mediation because the desire to win (or at least not “die”) can drive the most mild-mannered LARPer berserk.
New kids join all the time. It probably helps to get there in time for the council at the picnic tables before we head into the woods, but everyone is welcoming of newcomers.
Many parents take the opportunity to hike through Tony Schmidt themselves, walking and talking with the other parents who choose to stay in the area. Some parents have brought younger siblings along. There are at least four playgrounds in the general area.
I needed to develop a plan to foamsmith flatblade boffers that I could teach other kids to do, that could be completed in a single workshop, and that used affordable materials. My final plan is detailed below (draft version — I am adding good photos from the design process).
Supplies
scrap cardstock for templates
blue foam camp mat —½-sheet per boffer
½-inch CPVC pipe — 40 inches per boffer
¾-inch CPVC pipe — 8 inches per boffer
1-inch washers — 2 per boffer
Liquid Nails adhesive
This was a disappointment as it simply would not dry. If I was to do this workshop again, I would find an outdoor space or well-ventilated indoor space and use contact cement. I chose Liquid Nails because we were foamsmithing in a church basement with limited ventilation options and Liquid Nails has Greenguard Children & Schools Certification. It is VOC-compliant with no harmful fumes. It seemed a safe choice.
duct tape, basic grey and assorted patterns
open cell sponges — 1 per boffer
electrical tape in assorted colors
Tools
yardsticks — 8 per boffer (I happen to own a lot of yardsticks; you can probably use something else is step #29)
clamps — 4 per boffer
markers (the basic black Sharpie works well) — 1 per maker is useful
scissors (for cutting medium density foam rubber)— 1 per maker is useful
tape measures (sewers aka soft) — 1 for every 2 makers is useful
rulers (the yard sticks will do, but shorter rulers are handy if you have them) — 1 per maker is useful
Instructions
Sword Parts by Nathan Robinson at the English language Wikipedia https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Sword_Parts.jpg
Choose your blade width.
A minimum blade width of 3 inches is required for safety.
You can change your mind about this later, but you need a basic idea to do Step #2 well.
Using the width of your blade, design your crossguard (also called your quillons) and make a template on scrap cardstock.
A good overview of crossguard styles is at “Ewart Oakeshott: The Man and his Legacy: Part IV,” an article by Chad Arnow, Russ Ellis, Patrick Kelly, Nathan Robinson, and Sean A. Flynt, compiled and produced by Nathan Robinson on the myArmoury website.
While you can get fancy, three layers of a simple 2½-inch to 3-inch circle of blue foam camp mat will work fine.
Choose your grip length
Grips are generally 4 to 6 inches, depending on your hand size.
Grasp a yardstick or ruler to measure your grasping hand and add about an inch for comfort. I have a 4-inch grasp, so I want to cut a 5-inch grip.
Double check your measurement!
Work with a partner to measure each other’s leg length from heel to hip.
Double check your measurement!
Your boffer length from point to the start of the pommel shouldn’t exceed your leg length, and shorter is not a bad idea for better balance.
Your pommel may be extended for balance.
Using your leg length as a guide and knowing your grip length, and your crossguard height, choose your bladelength.
Add your blade length (from step #7) to your grip length (from step #5) plus your crossguard height (from step #3) and subtract 4 inches (for a soft blade point) to determine your core length.
Mark a ½-inch CPVC pipe with your core length.
This is the danger point where mistakes are made! Pay attention to step #8! You are not cutting your blade length, but your core length.
Your core supports your grip, crossguard and most but not all of your blade.
The final 4 inches of your blade will be 1 inch of blue foam camping pad plus 3 inches of soft sponge to ensure a safe point.
Cut your 4-inch to 6-inch grip from one of the ¾-inch CPVC pipes.
Attach a 1-inch washer to one end of ½-inch CPVC core:
Rip a 6-inch length of ordinary duct tape.
Rip that in half lengthwise to make two narrow strips.
Place one strip over the other to make a cross.
Center your washer in the center of that cross.
Center one end of your core on the washer.
Use the duct tape to secure the washer to the end of the pipe, pressing the duct tape flat over both washer and core.
This will provide support for your grip and prevent the sharp edges of the CPVC from cutting through the foam of your pommel.
You might notice this is a single strip. The cross-strip method proved to be better and cleaner, but we didn’t photograph that!
Slide your ¾-inch grip over the uncapped end of the ½ core and snug it up against the washer.
Secure your grip on both ends by wrapping once with ordinary duct tape.
Now attach another 1-inch washer to the other end of your core, using the same method as in step #11.
Cover the entire length of your core in ordinary duct tape, using a single lengthwise piece of tape or two
Do not spiral the tape around and around the core.
This is to help prevent splintering should your boffer break in combat.
Take a break! Clean up your workshop, wash your hands, and eat lunch.
Study the Blue Foam Camp Pad Layout.
This step is critical. Have a plan before you trace. Be sure you have a complete plan before you cut!
Blue Foam Camp Pad Layout. You need to fit all of these pieces on your pad, so place your templates thoughtfully. Start with the crossguard in the lower left. See below for the order of placement.
On half of a blue foam camp pad, trace your crossguard template in the lower left corner with the hilt snugging the left edge of your crossguard up to the left edge of the pad.
Center your core over your crossguard outline with the top edge of your grip at the bottom of your crossguard and mark the top edge of your core. Now make a mark 1 inch beyond the tip of your core — this will be the top of the foam portion of your boffer.
Using your blade width from step #1, measure out half the width of your blade from either side of the center of your traced crossguard.
Draw your blade shape.
Keep in mind that complex shapes will be harder to cover in duct tape.
Use a yardstick edge to make the sides of the blade straight.
Use scissors to out the crossguard-and-blade as a single piece.
Study the Blue Foam Camp Pad Layout and then use your first crossguard-and-blade as a template to trace two more, following the layout above.
Measure twice, cut once! Trace both the third and fourth crossguards-and-blades!
Take a good look at that Blue Foam Camp Pad Layout again and notice that you’ll also need to leave room for 2 more crossguards and your pommel pieces.
You’ll need a ½-inch channel through the center of one blade-and-crossguard to fit around your core.
Study the Blue Foam Camp Pad Layout.
Find the center of one blade and measure ¼-inch out from either side of the center.
Once again, center your core over your crossguard outline with the top edge of your grip at the bottom of your crossguard and mark the top edge of your core to mark the top of your channel.
Use a yardstick to draw a straight line, leaving the 1-inch of pad above the core!
Cut out the channel using scissors.
You must have at least 1 inch of pad above the core, to be followed by at least 3 inches of soft sponge.
Place the core in the channel you cut and secure it in place with two 4-inch strips of ordinary duct tape on both sides of the pad (using 4 strips of tape).
Don’t cover completely with duct tape! Just tack it in place.
Use a scissors to trim the edges of the other two blades into an angle.
If you wish, you can draw lines about ¼ to ½ inch from the edges to help you cut straight.
This is much easier to do with a hacksaw once all 3 blade pieces are glued together, but I didn’t have enough hacksaws to share and worried about accidents.
Apply a thin layer of Liquid Nails to one side of the pad-and-core piece and another thin layer to inside of one of the angled pad pieces. Wait 3 to 5 minutes, then press the two pieces together.
Turn it over and repeat the thin layer of Liquid Nails on the other side of the foam-and-core piece and on the bottom of the other angled piece. Wait 3 to 5 minutes, then press those two pieces together.
Use 8 yardsticks (two on each edge of each side) and 3 clamps on each edge to hold your pad together over your core. Let the glue set for at least 30 minutes (overnight is better). When the glue is set, remove the clamps and yardsticks. If your glue is not fully dry, use a short strip of ordinary duct tape to secure your pieces together at both the top and near the crossguards. Do not over tape! Just tack it in place!
Clean up your workshop, wash your hands, and go have a snack.
Trace and cut out two additional crossguards. Glue the crossguards in place on your boffer as in step 27, securing with a thin strip of ordinary duct tape.
Trace and cut out at least two pommels. Pommels must be a minimum of 2 blue foam camp pad layers thick, but your design may call for more.
Stack together your pommel pieces, glue as in step 27, and secure them loosely in place at the end of your grip with a couple of thin strips of ordinary duct tape (just like you did the washer).
Design your point. You can make a template on scrap cardstock or draw directly on your sponge.
The base of your point should be as wide as the top of your blade.
Your point must be at least 3 inches long.
The stabbing tip must not be able to pass more than a ½ inch through a 2-inch round hole (that is, an eye socket).
Use a scissors to snip out the form of your point from your all-purpose sponge.
Attach your point to the end of your blade with a few strips of tape, being very careful to not wrap tightly so that you do not compress the soft and springy foam!
Choose your finishing duct tape for your pommel!
Secure your pommel to the end of your grip using the same method as in step #11 for the washers.
Then cover the entire pommel, using smaller, narrower strips to cover tricky bends and curves and then covering those with larger pieces to keep them from peeling.
Take your time, and apply each piece as smoothly as you can.
Avoid more than 3 layers of tape if you can avoid it.
Do not cover your grip in tape any more than needed to secure your pommel!
Next to be covered is the crossguard. Choose your finishing duct tape and apply using the same method as for the pommel.
Choose your placement carefully and cover the entire crossguard, extending about ¼-inch out onto the blade and grip.
Avoid more than 3 layers of tape if you can avoid it.
Then the blade. Use long lengthwise strips — don’t spiral around and around!
To keep your sword soft and safe, avoid layering duct tape more than twice over any area.
Avoid compressing the soft foam of the point.
Last is the grip, using two layers of either duct tape or, preferably, electrical tape.
Here you may wrap the tape around and around in a spiral, which creates a nice effect.
Check your point. If it’s too stiff, use the point of a safety pin to poke a few breathing holes in the duct tape.
Before you hit anyone else with your boffer, you need to test it on yourself.
Take your outside and, with your parent’s permission, whack yourself in the leg so you know how hard you can safely swing your boffer in mock combat.
Don’t hit as hard as you can! Just hit yourself as hard as you plan to hit your opponents in mock combat.
I’ve invited some experienced LARPers from Planet Homeschool to join us this Thursday to help us with our story development, so please come ready to discuss the story of our LARP including the history of our realm and the roles of our characters. This is the first time I’ve done this, too, so I’m looking forward to the guidance of the more experienced LARPers.
It was easy for me to start LARPing at Planet Homeschool because the story was already developed and the other characters knew who they were and what roles they played in the game. Most of the LARPers at the Summertime LARP are brand new to LARPing. The Summertime LARP itself is also brand new. Since I’m usually the only one there with any LARP experience at all, it’s been hard for me to help the group get the story going. I am hoping that these experienced LARPers from Planet Homeschool can help the group with story development.
I’m asking everyone else to come ready to discuss the story of our LARP including the history of our realm and the roles of our characters.
We did not talk about a name for our realm today. I think we could use Dragonwood until we come up with one that we like better.
We did get some story action today! The story as I recall it follows. There was a lot happening, so I did not get the whole story, so everyone is invited to send more of the story to the group. Or you could also send your character’s story to share.
Summer LARP #5
Dewdrop accidentally released a wraith into our world, and it threatened to take over, but our heroes went to Mount Olympus to appeal to the gods, who stunned the wraith and robbed it of its powers.
Meanwhile, Jonathan made a pact with an elder god and then tried to kill everyone so he could sacrifice the blood of the innocents to that elder god and thus gain immortality for himself and also destroy the world and recreate it in the image of the elder gods. If you were on the side of those innocents and you were killed in battle, then you awoke as a member of the elder gods’ evil army. However, if you were touched by the holy relic, then you went back to the army of the innocents.
Unfortunately, our heroes failed in their quest, and the world was destroyed and recreated in the image of the elder gods, but thankfully Charlie sacrificed himself and in doing so opened a portal which our heroes passed through into a new world, Dragonwood! That portal remains open, and new adventurers fall through it every week.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does the same story continue every week?
Our LARP’s story should continue week to week but also to evolve over time. The next LARP should pick up where this one left off but could end somewhere completely different.
Do I have to be the same character each week or can the character change?
Most LARPers have multiple characters that they play and are continuously creating new ones while enhancing existing ones. If a character was critical to how the last LARP ended, the other characters will probably appreciate a reappearance at least at the start of the next LARP or a good story explaining the disappearance of the character.
Does the character have to be anthropomorphic or can it be something inanimate like “the wind” or “a thunderhead” ?
This is a multiverse LARP with no restrictions on character types other than the forbidding of “all powerful” characters. Characters that are too powerful make the game boring, so all characters must have flaws, weaknesses and vulnerabilities.
Essential equipment for the adventuring alchemist, this bandolier made from duct tape will keep your favorite potions easily at hand!
Guild members will also be bottling up a variety of colored nebula potions! Each alchemist will make 10 to 12 potion vials and 1 bandolier.
There will be an assortment of duct tape colors and patterns to use.
Bring provisions (that is, a bag lunch).
To ensure we have sufficient supplies for all guild members, please sign up by noon on Monday, July 18.
My mom and I will bring our supply of tools, but you may bring your own as well if you wish to avoid waiting your turn. Tools used include scissors, hobby knives or utility knives, rulers.
You may bring your own project or you may choose to participate in the project led by my mom and I! If you bring your own project, it does not have to be LARP related. Just come craft with us!
If you want to participate in the alchemist bandolier group project, we ask that you plan to reimburse us $5 for the materials cost. We encourage you to also consider making a free-will donation to Waite Park Church of $3 to $5 per family.
The Crafters Guild has the downstairs Junior Chapel at Waite Park Church reserved from 10am until 2pm. We will start at 10am and work on our projects until we are done.
Safety First!
Crafters will be using hobby knives, utility knives, scissors, permanent markers, food coloring, glitter and duct tape. While crafters are expected to use tools safely and responsibly at all times, the potential for accidents exists.
Crafters should wear clothes, footwear, hairstyles and eye protection appropriate for a workshop. That means no loose sleeves or shirt tails, no open-toed shoes, and tie back long hair. Safety goggles are recommended, but you must provide your own.
Crafters who engage in unsafe behavior will be asked to leave.
All crafters are expected to assist with clean up. All crafters are expected to stay until clean up is complete.
Parents are solely responsible for the safety of their own children.
Crafters Guild is recommended for ages 12 and up, but as skills and maturity vary by child, parents or legal guardians are responsible for determining the suitability of projects for their own own children and for determining whether or not their children will require their assistance to succeed. Parents may also choose to participate in the group project — or bring their own project to work on during the gathering.
